Feeding Large Predator Fish: Live, Frozen & Pellet Diets for Gars, Pike Cichlids & Bichirs

Feeding Large Predator Fish: Live, Frozen & Pellet Diets for Gars, Pike Cichlids & Bichirs

According to MTF-Aquatics, large predator fish such as gars (Lepisosteus spp.), pike cichlids (Crenicichla spp.) and bichirs (Polypterus spp.) should be fed a varied diet of frozen meaty foods and high-protein pellets as their dietary staple, with live food reserved for weaning or stimulating reluctant feeders. Feed adults every 2–3 days; juveniles daily. Never rely solely on live feeder fish — they introduce disease and create nutritional deficiencies.

Red Florida Gar and pike cichlid in a blackwater predator aquarium setting

If you’ve just taken delivery of a 9-inch Red Florida Gar (Lepisosteus osseus), a 13-inch Red Atabapo Pike Cichlid (Crenicichla sp. Atabapo), or a Senegal Bichir (Polypterus senegalus), the first question — after the tank is ready — is always the same: what do I actually feed this thing?

The answer matters more than most hobbyists realise. These are apex and ambush predators with slow metabolisms, specific nutritional requirements and an almost pathological resistance to change. Get the diet wrong and you get one of three outcomes: a fat fish loaded with parasites from low-quality feeder fish, a fish that stops eating entirely because the novelty wore off, or chronic water quality problems from an over-rich, single-source diet. None of those are good.

This guide covers the full feeding picture for all three groups — live, frozen and pellet diets — with weaning protocols, feeding frequencies, UK sourcing notes, and the safety rules you should already know.


Why Feeding Strategy Matters More Than the Food Itself

All three species — gars, pike cichlids and bichirs — are piscivores or carnivores that evolved in nutrient-sparse environments. The Amazon basin, the Rio Atabapo, the rivers and floodplains of sub-Saharan Africa are not farms. Wild fish feed opportunistically, go days between meals, and eat a diverse range of prey items — fish, crustaceans, insects, worms — across different seasons.

In captivity, the instinct to simplify (one food, fed daily, easy) works against the fish. Nutritional redundancy builds up. Thiaminase from too much oily fish accumulates. Phosphorus loads from pellet-only diets strain the kidneys. And feeder fish — the perceived easy option — carry a disease vector risk that no serious keeper should accept as routine.

Variety across food types, fed at the right intervals, is the foundation everything else sits on.


Understanding Your Predator’s Feeding Style

Before choosing food, understand how each group hunts — because it determines how and where you deliver food in the tank.

Gars (Lepisosteus spp.) — Surface and mid-water ambush

Gars are classic lie-in-wait predators. They hold position near the surface or in mid-water, often motionless for extended periods, then strike sideways with explosive lateral speed. They are primarily visual hunters. Food presentation should mimic small fish or elongated prey items at or near the water surface. A floating or slowly sinking lancefish will trigger a strike; a sinking pellet on the substrate usually won’t.

Pike Cichlids (Crenicichla spp.) — Mid-water ambush from cover

Crenicichla are also visual ambush predators but operate from structure — behind wood, rocks, overhangs. They explode outward to engulf prey in a single movement. The Red Atabapo Pike Cichlid (Crenicichla sp. Atabapo) is a large, aggressive species that can top 35 cm (14 inches) at full size; the specimens currently in stock at 13 inches are near-adult. They are intelligent feeders that quickly learn to associate the tongs or feeding stick with food — you can use this to your advantage during weaning.

Bichirs (Polypterus spp.) — Benthic, smell-led nocturnal hunters

Bichirs are the outliers of this group. Polypterus senegalus is a bottom-dweller with rudimentary vision and heavily relies on olfaction and the ampullary organs in its rostrum to detect prey. It hunts primarily at night or at dusk — which is exactly when you should feed it. Food dropped directly to the substrate triggers feeding; anything floating at the surface will typically be ignored. The good news is that bichirs are generally the easiest of the three to maintain on prepared foods, taking bloodworm, prawns and sinking pellets without much resistance.


The Diet Hierarchy: Live, Frozen and Pellet

Live Food — Useful Tool, Poor Staple

Live food has one legitimate use in this context: triggering feeding in newly-arrived or reluctant specimens. Movement is an irresistible stimulus for a visual predator. A newly transported gar or pike cichlid that is stressed and not recognising dead food as prey will almost always respond to a live river shrimp or small earthworm.

The problem is what comes with live food sourced from UK wholesalers:

  • Feeder goldfish and livebearers are among the highest disease-vector risk items in the hobby. They carry whitespot, velvet, internal parasites and bacterial infections that pass directly to your predator fish. They are also nutritionally incomplete — high in thiaminase (which destroys B vitamins) and low in essential fatty acids.
  • Gut-loaded earthworms (Lumbricus terrestris or red wigglers) are a far safer live option. You can source them from UK fishing or composting suppliers — unmedicated, pesticide-free garden/compost worms. Wash them before use. They are nutritionally excellent: good protein profile, no thiaminase, no parasite load. Bichirs in particular go berserk for earthworms.
  • River/freshwater shrimp (Gammarus spp.) from reputable UK aquatic suppliers are another clean live option that triggers feeding without the disease risks of feeder fish.

Rule: use live food for weaning only, or as an occasional enrichment item (once a fortnight maximum). Never rely on it as the dietary staple.

Frozen Food — The Core of the Diet

Frozen is where the vast majority of meals should come from. UK hobbyists have good access to a range of frozen marine and freshwater prey items that are:

  • Pathogen-killed by the freezing process
  • Nutritionally superior to feeder fish
  • Consistent in quality and safe to store in bulk
Frozen Food Item Best For Notes
Lancefish (sandeels) Gars, pike cichlids Excellent protein, low thiaminase, mimics elongated prey shape. Gars strike these readily.
Silversides Pike cichlids, gars Larger body size, suits 13”+ fish well. Defrost and feed whole.
Prawns (whole, shell-on) All three species Good calcium from shell; scrape shells off for smaller bichirs. Source: supermarket freezer aisle or frozen fish section is fine — no additives.
Cockles & mussels Pike cichlids, bichirs Good iodine/mineral profile. Remove from shell. Feed no more than 2× per week to avoid thiaminase accumulation.
Large bloodworm (frozen slabs) Bichirs, juvenile pike cichlids High in protein, excellent for triggering feeding. Poor as a sole diet.
Earthworms (frozen) All three Freeze your own from clean garden stock or buy from fishing suppliers. Outstanding nutritional profile.

Defrost frozen food fully in cold (not warm) water in a separate container before feeding. Never microwave. Pat dry before use on larger specimens to reduce water temperature fluctuation.

Pellets — The Long Game

The goal for any long-term predator keeper is a fish that accepts quality dry pellets alongside frozen food. A fish eating pellets reliably is a fish you can care for even when your frozen supply runs out, when you go on holiday, or when you need a quarantine diet.

Hikari Massivore Delite (large floating pellet) is the industry standard for large carnivores. The formula is high-protein, vitamin-stabilised and designed specifically for large predatory fish. Gars and pike cichlids can be trained onto Massivore with patience — it floats at the surface and can be delivered on tongs to mimic live prey movement.

Hikari Carnivore Sticks (sinking pellet) are better suited to bichirs and benthic feeders. Drop them to the substrate in the evening. Polypterus senegalus usually accepts these within a few weeks without much weaning effort.

Repashy Meat Pie (gel food, mixed from powder) is worth knowing about for pike cichlids and bichirs that are proving difficult to transition. You can embed lancefish scent, earthworm powder or prawn scent in the gel, giving a familiar smell in a prepared-food format. Some keepers use it as a bridge between live/frozen and pellets.


How Do You Wean a Reluctant Predator Onto Prepared Foods?

This is the question that fills forum threads. Here is the protocol Marc recommends for newly arrived specimens:

  1. Don’t feed for 3–4 days after arrival. Let the fish settle. A hungry fish investigates its environment; a well-fed fish doesn’t.
  2. Begin with live food if the fish won’t strike at anything else. One or two gut-loaded earthworms or river shrimp to confirm the fish is healthy and will feed.
  3. Switch to tong-fed frozen on day 5–7. Hold a defrosted lancefish or silverside at the surface with stainless tongs. Move it slowly and erratically. Most gars and pike cichlids will strike within the first few attempts.
  4. Introduce pellets alongside frozen once tong-feeding is established. Offer one Massivore pellet alongside the frozen item on the same tongs. Over 4–6 weeks, gradually reduce the frozen portion and increase pellets.
  5. Fast for 2 days if the fish becomes selective and picks out only the premium frozen items. Re-introduce with pellets first.

Patience is the variable. Some specimens wean in a fortnight. Some take three months. Don’t rush it — a fish eating frozen reliably is already 90% of the way there.


Feeding Frequency and Portion Size

Life Stage Size Frequency Portion Guide
Juvenile Under 15 cm (6”) Daily Prey item approx. ¼ of body width
Sub-adult 15–25 cm (6–10”) Every 2 days 1–2 prey items per feeding
Adult 25 cm+ (10”+) Every 2–3 days 2–3 prey items; remove uneaten food after 30 min

These three species have different metabolisms. Gars are the most efficient — they can go longer between feeds and remain healthy. Pike cichlids in their growth phase eat more aggressively. Bichirs are metabolically slow and will become obese on daily feeding — every 2–3 days is correct for adults.


Safety: Feeding Predators Without Injuries

This section is not optional reading.

  • Always use stainless-steel tongs or feeding forceps — not fingers. A 13-inch Red Atabapo Pike Cichlid (Crenicichla sp. Atabapo) has a gape capable of inflicting a serious laceration. A 9-inch Red Florida Gar (Lepisosteus osseus) has needle-like teeth designed to grip struggling fish; they do the same to fingers. Their explosive strike speed is genuinely startling the first time you see it at close range.
  • Remove all uneaten food within 30 minutes. Predator fish produce significant ammonia loads; rotting food compounds this rapidly. A sump or large canister filter helps, but protein removal starts with not leaving half a silverside at the bottom of the tank.
  • Do not feed immediately before or after a water change — temperature fluctuation during water changes suppresses appetite and the combined metabolic load is not ideal. Wait 1–2 hours.
  • Quarantine any live food for 2 weeks before introducing it to the display tank if it comes from an aquatic source. Earthworms from a trusted garden or fishing supplier do not need quarantining.

UK Sourcing: Where to Buy Food for Large Predators

Hobbyists in the UK have good options for sourcing predator food without paying aquatic retailer prices for every item:

  • Frozen marine fish: major supermarket freezer sections (Tesco, Waitrose, Morrisons) sell lancefish, whitebait, prawns and mussels in sizes suitable for large predators. No additives, no preservatives. Significantly cheaper per kg than aquatic food packs.
  • Earthworms: UK fishing suppliers and composting worm suppliers (e.g. fishing tackle shops selling lobworms) provide clean, pesticide-free worms. Red wigglers from composting suppliers are also excellent.
  • Hikari Massivore and Carnivore Sticks: available via UK aquatic specialists and online retailers including Amazon UK. Buy in bulk — the 13-oz tub of Massivore is the most cost-effective size for a regular large predator.
  • Frozen aquatic bloodworm and Gammarus: any UK aquatic supplier or online frozen fish food retailer. Hikari frozen ranges, Ocean Nutrition, and King British all distribute widely in the UK.

The Three Species at a Glance: Feeding Summary Table

Species Primary Diet Best Live Best Frozen Target Pellet Feed Frequency (adult)
Red Florida Gar (Lepisosteus osseus) Carnivore / piscivore Earthworms, river shrimp Lancefish, silversides Hikari Massivore (floating) Every 2–3 days
Red Atabapo Pike Cichlid (Crenicichla sp. Atabapo) Carnivore / piscivore Earthworms, river shrimp Silversides, prawns, lancefish Hikari Massivore (floating) Every 2–3 days
Senegal Bichir (Polypterus senegalus) Carnivore / benthic predator Earthworms Bloodworm, prawns, earthworms Hikari Carnivore Sticks (sinking) Every 2–3 days

Ready to Add One of These to the Tank?

All three species discussed in this guide are species we keep, source directly, and hand-select. The Red Florida Gar (Lepisosteus osseus) specimens currently in stock are 9–10 inch specimens — past the most fragile juvenile stage and at an ideal size to begin the pellet-weaning process described above. The Red Atabapo Pike Cichlid (Crenicichla sp. Atabapo) at 13 inches is a near-adult specimen with full colouration.

Every fish leaves with our Live Arrival Guarantee. Next-day specialist live-fish courier, Mon–Thu dispatch before 2pm.

Browse current predator stock and book a tranship for species not in the current listing.

Frequently Asked Questions

What do large predator fish like gars and pike cichlids eat in captivity?

In captivity, gars (Lepisosteus spp.) and pike cichlids (Crenicichla spp.) thrive on a varied diet of frozen lancefish, silversides, prawns, mussels, and large bloodworm. High-protein pellets such as Hikari Massivore or Hikari Carnivore should form part of the staple once the fish is weaned. Live food — gut-loaded river shrimp or earthworms — can be used to trigger feeding in newly-arrived specimens but should not be the sole diet.

How often should I feed a gar or pike cichlid?

Adult gars and pike cichlids should be fed every 2–3 days. Juveniles under 15 cm (6 inches) can be fed daily in smaller portions. Overfeeding is a serious risk with ambush predators — they have slow metabolisms and excess protein rapidly degrades water quality. Remove uneaten food within 30 minutes.

Can I feed feeder fish to predator fish in a UK aquarium?

At MTF-Aquatics, we strongly advise against routine use of feeder fish. Goldfish and other common feeders carry a high disease-introduction risk and are nutritionally poor (high in thiaminase, low in essential fatty acids). If live fish are needed to stimulate feeding, use gut-loaded river shrimp or small earthworms instead. Once feeding is established, transition fully to frozen and pellet foods.

How do I wean a pike cichlid or gar onto pellets or frozen food?

Start by target-feeding with forceps or tongs: hold a piece of frozen silversides or a lancefish at the surface and move it naturally. Once the fish strikes reliably at dead food, introduce Hikari Massivore pellets alongside the frozen item, gradually reducing frozen food frequency over 4–6 weeks. Hunger is the best motivator — do not feed for 3–4 days before beginning the weaning process.

What do bichirs eat, and how is feeding them different from gars or pike cichlids?

Bichirs (Polypterus spp.) are primarily benthic, bottom-feeding predators with poor eyesight — they hunt by smell and vibration rather than visual ambush. Feed them at night or after lights-out when they are most active. Sinking carnivore pellets (Hikari Carnivore sticks), frozen bloodworm, prawns and earthworms dropped to the substrate are ideal. Unlike gars, bichirs rarely take floating food; surface-fed items are typically ignored.

Is it safe to hand-feed large predator fish?

No. At MTF-Aquatics, we consider tongs or long feeding forceps non-negotiable when feeding gars, pike cichlids, or bichirs. These fish strike with explosive speed and a gar’s needle teeth or a large pike cichlid’s gape can inflict a serious laceration. Always use stainless-steel tongs and keep hands clear of the water surface during feeding.

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