Bichir Care UK: A First-Timer’s Guide to Polypterus (And What Not To Do)

Bichir Care UK: A First-Timer’s Guide to Polypterus (And What Not To Do)

Polypterus mokelembembe (Mokelembembe Bichir) — a rare African predator suited to monster fish setups

Bichirs (Polypterus spp.) are the gateway fish into the monster-tank world. They’re ancient — closer to lungfish than to anything else swimming in a typical community tank — they breathe atmospheric air, they hunt by smell, and they walk out of the tank if you let them. They’re also one of the few large predators that genuinely tolerates a first-time monster keeper, provided you set the tank up properly the first time.

This is a practical bichir care UK guide written from a retailer that actually keeps and ships these fish. We’ll cover the parameters, the feeding, and — more usefully — the specific mistakes that put new keepers’ bichirs in the bin within the first six months.

What a bichir actually is

Polypterus are a genus of African ray-finned fish with ganoid scales, paired lungs, and a row of dorsal finlets instead of a single fin. They’re crepuscular ambush predators: most active at dawn, dusk and after lights-out. Vision is poor; they hunt almost entirely by scent. There are roughly 14 described species, ranging from the 30 cm Polypterus palmas up to the 90 cm+ Polypterus endlicherii / bichir bichir.

The species most UK keepers encounter are:

Species Adult size Difficulty Notes
P. senegalus (Senegal / “dinosaur eel”) 30–35 cm Easy Classic starter bichir
P. palmas 30 cm Easy Slim-bodied, peaceful
P. delhezi (Armoured bichir) 35–40 cm Easy/Intermediate Banded pattern, hardy
P. ornatipinnis (Ornate) 50–60 cm Intermediate Stunning leopard markings
P. mokelembembe 30–35 cm Intermediate Rare, thick-bodied, premium
P. endlicherii / bichir bichir 60–90 cm Expert True monster — needs 8ft

If this is your first one, start with P. senegalus, P. delhezi, or — if you want something rarer without jumping straight to a metre-long fish — Polypterus mokelembembe. We currently have a single hand-selected specimen in stock; details and current stock are on the Mokelembembe Bichir product page.

Tank size: bigger footprint, not bigger height

Bichirs are benthic. They use the bottom of the tank. A tall 200-litre cube is worse than a long 200-litre shallow tank, even though the volume is identical.

Minimum footprints we’ll sell a bichir into:

  • Small species (senegalus, palmas, mokelembembe, delhezi): 4ft × 18” (120 × 45 cm), ~250 litres.
  • Medium (ornatipinnis, ansorgii): 5ft × 18–24” (150 × 60 cm), ~400 litres.
  • Large (endlicherii, bichir bichir, lapradei): 6–8ft × 24” (180–240 × 60 cm), 600 litres+.

These are minimums for a single fish. Bichirs are social-ish — they tolerate conspecifics well — but every additional fish means more footprint and more filtration, not just more water.

Mistake #1: buying “to grow into” a small tank

A 10 cm juvenile senegalus will hit 25 cm within a year on decent food. We see customers buy a 60 litre starter tank intending to upgrade “in a few months” and then the fish stalls, develops spinal curvature, and never recovers. Buy the adult tank first. Always.

Water parameters

Bichirs are forgiving but they are not indestructible.

Parameter Target
Temperature 25–28 °C
pH 6.5–7.8
dGH 5–15
Ammonia / Nitrite 0 ppm
Nitrate <40 ppm
Flow Moderate, not torrential

UK tap water in most regions sits comfortably within this range — you don’t need RO for bichirs. What you do need is a mature, oversized filter. Bichirs are messy, protein-heavy feeders. Aim for filter turnover of 6–8× tank volume per hour, split between an external canister and either a sump or a second canister. A single small internal will not cope past juvenile stage.

Mistake #2: skipping the cycle because “bichirs are hardy”

They survive ammonia spikes that would kill a tetra in an hour. They don’t thrive through them. Chronic low-grade ammonia exposure is the single most common cause of cloudy eyes, fin erosion and respiratory infection in young bichirs. Cycle the tank properly, ideally with seeded media, before the fish goes in.

The lid. Please, the lid.

A secure lid is non-negotiable — Bichirs are accomplished escape artists that can squeeze through surprisingly small gaps and ‘walk’ short distances out of water on their pectoral fins. They can survive several hours out of water if they stay damp, which means they’ll find a way out, mooch around the carpet, and you’ll find them behind the sofa.

Requirements:

  • Full glass or polycarbonate cover, not mesh.
  • No gaps wider than ~1 cm at filter inlets, heater cables, or feeding hatches.
  • Weighted if your fish is over 30 cm — a determined ornate will lift a loose lid.
  • Cover the overflow weir on sumped tanks. They will go down it.

Mistake #3: “the gap is too small for the fish”

A 25 cm bichir will fit through a 1.5 cm slot. Their bodies are extraordinarily flexible and they don’t need to keep their gills wet to keep breathing — that’s what the lungs are for. Measure twice.

Substrate, décor and surface access

  • Substrate: sand, ideally. Fine gravel is acceptable. Sharp gravel will abrade the ventral scales over time.
  • Hides: at least one cave or piece of driftwood per fish. A bichir without hiding spots will be perpetually stressed, hover near the surface, and refuse food.
  • Plants: real plants get uprooted; silk plants are fine. Anubias and Java fern tied to wood survive.
  • Surface access: leave 3–5 cm of air gap between the waterline and the lid. Bichirs gulp atmospheric air every few minutes and a tank filled to the brim will drown them — yes, drown.
Mokelembembe Bichir in a planted predator setup — note the substrate and hide arrangement

Feeding

Polypterus are obligate carnivores with poor eyesight. They locate food by scent, then strike. This shapes everything about how you feed them.

What works:

  • Sinking carnivore pellets (Hikari Massivore, Hikari Carnivore, Vitalis Predator).
  • Frozen krill, mussel, cockle, lance fish, prawn (shell-on for chitin).
  • Earthworms — excellent conditioning food.
  • Occasional whole frozen fish (silversides, smelt).

What doesn’t:

  • Floating pellets. They can’t see them and won’t surface-feed reliably.
  • Live feeder fish from unknown sources — disease risk is significant, and nutritionally they’re poor.
  • Mammalian meat (beef heart, chicken). Bichirs can’t metabolise the fat properly.

Feed juveniles daily, adults 3–4× per week. A well-fed bichir has a gentle curve from head to vent, not a sausage-shaped belly.

Mistake #4: feeding by sight, not by smell

Drop food directly in front of the fish, or use tongs to place it under the cave entrance. Bichirs will miss food that lands a foot away from their face. Tankmates with better eyesight — and bichirs are almost always kept with other large fish — will steal everything if you just scatter pellets across the surface.

Tankmates

Bichirs are peaceful toward fish too big to swallow and predatory toward anything smaller. The mouth gape is the rule. If a tankmate can fit inside a bichir’s mouth folded once, it will be eaten overnight.

Good tankmates:

  • Larger Synodontis catfish
  • Severums, larger geophagines
  • Datnoids (in appropriate tanks)
  • Other bichirs of similar size
  • Silver dollars (as dither fish — fast and tall-bodied)

Avoid:

  • Anything under 10 cm. Including “too fast to catch” tetras. They get caught at night.
  • Aggressive cichlids that nip finlets — large oscars, jaguar cichlids.
  • Plecos that suck on slime coats (common pleco, sailfin). A Bristlenose is usually fine; a 40 cm common pleco is not.

Quarantine and arrival

Wild-imported bichirs frequently carry Macrogyrodactylus polypteri — a parasitic worm specific to the genus. Symptoms: flashing against décor, white threads visible on the body, mucous overproduction. Treatment is praziquantel-based, ideally before the fish enters the display.

Every bichir that ships from us has been held, observed and parasite-treated where appropriate. We still recommend a 2–4 week quarantine in a bare-bottom tank with a sponge filter before adding to a community. If you’re new to monster fish and want to skip the import lottery, browse our hand-selected stock in the Oddballs category — every fish ships with our Live Arrival Guarantee.

The short version: five things not to do

  1. Don’t buy a small tank planning to upgrade.
  2. Don’t skip cycling because “bichirs are hardy”.
  3. Don’t trust the lid you bought with the tank — upgrade it.
  4. Don’t house with anything smaller than the bichir’s mouth.
  5. Don’t feed floating food and assume the fish will figure it out.

Get those five right and a Polypterus will give you fifteen-plus years of slow, prehistoric, weirdly charming behaviour. Get them wrong and you’ll be replacing the fish within a year — which isn’t fair on the animal or your wallet.

Browse our current stock — every fish ships with our Live Arrival Guarantee. If you want something specific that isn’t listed, Marc can usually source it through our next transhipping run.

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